smoke free japan

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A Japanese colleague in Tohoku comments: When he takes his family to DENNY's, he can choose a nonsmoking section, but there is no real separation. McDonald's in Japan have no-smoking "areas", separated only by somebody's fond imagination. Many Japanese "family" restaurants now offer non-smoking "sections" - again, just lines on the floor. By contrast, the Sinkansen (Super Express Train) and JR (Japan Railway) have separate smoking cars, and you really notice the difference.   Thanks Noboru!

A Tokyo resident explains the McDonald's situation thusly: students like to hang out in coffeeshops, but in a regular Japanese coffeeshop you can't hang out for hours unless you keep buying food. This is expensive. In a McDonald's, there is less pressure to move on. So students plant themselves and smoke away the hours. Thanks Wendy!

STARBUCKS cafes in Japan are (in principle) smokefree.
Thanks Chikako!

SUBWAY, an American submarine sandwich chain, is (in principle) smokefree.

Kaiten Zushiya = Chains of sushi shops - often smoke-free.
The Tenka Zushi chain is a possibility.
Thanks Wendy!

July 2001 - Update from a resident:
The non-smoking situation in Japan is improving slowly but surely. While you are still guaranteed a lungful of smoke whenever you leave your house (55% of men and 25% of women smoke), there are now some places to go to get away from it for a while. Almost all family restaurant chains now have no-smoking sections. These include McDonalds, Dennys, Royal Host, Cocos, Friendly, Bikkuri Donkey as well as others. In addition, Starbucks coffee shops are sprouting in most of the major cities and are all non-smoking. There are also usually non-smoking tables in Mr. Donuts and Dotour, a local coffee shop chain. How well the non-smoking tables are insulated from the smoking sections is dependent entirely on the management and layout of each, individual restaurant. There seems to be little conformity even amongst restaurants belonging to the same chain. Another interesting development is that some of the fast food restaurants serving Japanese fare, in particular curry houses and conveyor belt sushi, now prohibit smoking during the lunch hour. This has less to do with health, I think, than the fact that they don't want people lingering over a smoke and taking up valuable table time. Still, whatever the reason, it is a boon to us non-smokers!
    For upscale dining, it is best to try the restaurants in large international hotel chains like Hilton, Sheraton, etc. My wife and I just had a lovely meal at the PortPia Hotel's Alain Chappelle restaurant in Kobe. We specifically asked for the table farthest from the smoking section and were able to enjoy a fantastic dinner without even one whiff of the evil stuff.
    Almost all train stations, department stores and government offices now have limited smoking areas meaning it is theoretically possible to escape the pollution for a bit in one of these areas. Unfortunately, these areas as well are left entirely up to the discretion of management and are sometimes located right in the center of heavily trafficked areas or, even worse, in the entrance and exit vestibules so you sometimes have to brave a literal wall of smoke in order to get to the smoke free areas.
    The biggest stumbling block to more acceptance of non-smoking and smoke free areas as the norm is the government. Despite overwhelming evidence of rising rates of cancer and other tobacco related illnesses, Japan Tobacco remains government owned and a huge income earner for the federal coffers. Cigarette advertisements are no longer allowed on television except late at night, but can be seen on all public transportation, in huge billboard ads and in all the print media. In addition, cigarettes themselves are easily obtainable by anyone from ubiquitous vending machines.
    Hope this helps a little anyone who is interested in coming to Japan.

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AOMORI

Toyoko-Inn - excellent hotels with no-smoking rooms and floors. I did not experience smoke-shock (like in a JR smoking car) at all.
Thanks to Raymond Sabata!


NUMAZU / SHIZUOKA PREFECTURE

Fishmarket Taproom
Numazu Port   055-963-2628
American-style brewpub, local and import beers and ales. No-smoking inside.

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KYOTO

Fiasco
2F, Kamidachiuri Karasuma, higashi-iru.
Upscale Italian restaurant
11:30am-10pm every day *except* Wednesday

Palaceside Kyoto
I finally found a smoke-free hotel (not just a floor or rooms) in Kyoto. It's the Palaceside Kyoto, a very reasonably priced businessman's hotel across from the Imperial Palace on Karasuma-dori, a long block north from a subway station. The entire hotel is smoke-free except for a small smoking room on one of the floors. There's English-speaking staff, Internet access in the lobby, Thai massage service, and nice breakfast included. Highly recommend this one!
Thanks to Raymond Tabata!


SAPPORO

Toyoko-Inn
Excellent hotel with no-smoking rooms and floors. I did not experience smoke-shock (like in a JR smoking car) at all.
Thanks to Raymond Sabata!


TOKYO

Dalloyau
Ginza-Jiyugaoka
Tea shop

Guruppe Restaurant
Ogikubo 5-27-5    3393-1224
Lunch and dinner Mon-Sat; closed 2-5.

Bob's Lounge - "Home-Sweet-Home Akasaka"
Exit #11 of Tameike-Sanno subway station
"International communication pub"
A lounge in central Tokyo with non-smoking hours!
Smokefree from 7pm-9pm Mon-Sat, Wednesdays till midnight.
Check for upcoming special events! Book the lounge for parties!
"Good drinks and nice people!"

La Jolla Restaurant
Hiro-o,    3442-1865
Mexican food

Mela
2-25-17 Dogenzaka (Kasumi Building, Shibuya)    3770-0120
Indian restaurant. Open for dinner daily until 2am.

Mother Leaf
Ginza 5-14-5,Higashi-Ginza
Smokefree tea shop.

Natural Harmony
Jingumae 3-38-12 (Gaienmae), Puzzle Aoyama, Bldg. 1F    3405-8393
Vegetarian and 'regular' Japanese cuisine.
Mon-Sat.

Tokyu Stay Yotsuya Hotel
Excellent hotel with no-smoking rooms and floors. I did not experience smoke-shock (like in a JR smoking car) at all.
Thanks to Raymond Sabata!

West Park Cafe
Akasaka Tokyu Hotel (Akasaka-Mitsuke)    3580-9090
Smoke free inside and out (!), even on the patio. Japanese and American food.

Uluru
3-22-6 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku    3402 0125
Harajuku station
Small wine bar. They allow smoking after 11pm.
Weekdays 6pm-3am / Sat 6pm-midnight

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YOKOHAMA

Motomachi

Garlic Jo's
As the name implies, the emphasis is on garlic. Completely smokefree and, according to the reviewer, very good! Homemade sangria.

Raani Restaurant
3-17-7 Higashiyamada, Tsuzuki-ku,Yokohama-shi, Kanagawa-ken, 224-0023
phone: 045-591-8067
Totally smokefree, north Indian restaurant. Experienced chefs from India. Cooking class! Interesting web site, and check out the staff page!
Near Yokohama metro Center-kita station
http://raani.org/ -- Japanese
http://raani.org/e/ -- English

YOKOHAMA STATION

Sengoku Ramen
Traditional Japanese noodle-based cuisine.

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OTHER RESOURCES

Tokyo No Smoking Restaurants
A list in English of smokefree restaurants.
Thanks Janki Nayar!

No Smoke Tokyo
A group that schedules smokefree group evenings out. English speakers. They also have a mailing list.

Smoke Free Japan
Mostly restaurants in Tokyo.

WHERE'S A NONSMOKER TO GO?
A Gaijin Angst production!

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